I woke up the next morning (Saturday) in bright sunshine and bird song. I walked to the end of the lane that over-looked the Ocean with nothing in front of me except Africa. I had to stay by the house so that the airport could deliver my luggage. However, I did manage to go to the Mobile store to pick up an Italian SIM card and telephone number. As soon as I activated the card I phoned my hosts to tell them that my luggage had arrived and to give them my phone number. Again, treating me like family, they insisted I come for lunch tomorrow at their home to meet the whole family.
I am now going to bed after fixing all my electronic equipment, especially my camera, and plan to drive tomorrow morning along the Portopalo di Capo Passero waterfront and up the coast, stopping at Marzamemi, an old tuna-fishing village. I will then go to Pachino to have lunch with my “Sicilian family”.
Woke up Sunday in brilliant sunshine with plans to drive to Marzamemi, a seaside fishing village recycled into a resort. However, I faced my first real challenge. I had parked in the gated entrance way, facing the house on an incline; but, could not get out. Every time I took my foot off the brake, I rolled backwards.
Moreover, the exit was extremely narrow and curved. At the best of times I have difficulty reversing. I tried pushing the side mirrors to the side to give me more maneuverability, but then I could not see. Finally, I moved one and left the other one open. After an hour, and many scratches to the side mirrors, I got out.My GPS did not function; fortunately my cell phone has built-in maps of Sicily and a good guidance system; so I confidently left for Marzamemi. However, challenge number 2. As I approached Marzamemi, the car started beeping – I was out of gas. So I stopped someone and asked where the closest gas station was. He told me to go straight for about 7 km; however, when I told him that I was on the reserve he told me to turn around and go back to Portopalo di Capo. I found the gas station but had no idea how to use it or pay for gas. A cyclist showed me how. There are 3 types of gas (diesel, gas/alcohol, and regular). They are colour coded. Inside the gas cap there is a coloured circle which informs the driver which gas to use. You first insert your money at a kiosque, and then pump gas. However, if you put in too much money, you get a receipt stating that you are entitled to a refund. But everything is closed between 1 and 4; so you have to wait for your change until the gas station reopens. That is fine for locals; but a drag for people only driving through. So I learned something new.
By this time it was too late to go to Marzamemi; since I was invited for lunch at my Sicilian family in Pachino. I took off for Pachino, stopping at a roadside stand for fresh flowers (1.5 Euros) and arrived (I thought) very late. However, Sicilians are very laid back and were still preparing the meal. We all sat in the kitchen making fresh pasta with meatballs, simmered local fish with capers, chicken scaloppini, steamed local cauliflower, and a salad. The sister-in-law had brought a Sicilian ricotta cake.
Maria Rizza, the owner of the house teaches English at a private school in Noto. She is part of a European Commission on teaching English and so travels a lot on their behalf. She is also doing a master’s degree in media. She has several videos on YouTube prepared by her students. There is a great one on Noto, the Baroque Pearl. So we had a lot to talk about (mostly in Italian). Her sister-in-law has friends in Toronto and she had many questions about life in Canada.
After lunch I went to Marzamemi. It is a typical small sea-side resort with many small café’s, fish restaurants, and seaside promenades. It was very busy on Sunday with people strolling with their children, dogs etc. There were also many men and boys fishing along the causeway.
Monday, I stayed home and did damage control. I received an email from my bank that they had suspended my card and my on-line banking because of “suspicious” usage. I emailed them and they reversed the suspension. So I can eat and get gas. Then my phone from videotron did not work here in Italy (with the videotron SIM card) as I had been promised. I don’t mind paying roaming charges as I need it so that my 100-year old mother can call me. She will not be able to cope with a different number. So I went to a local café where the owner gave me his password so that I could log onto his wifi. The owner is from Toronto so formed an instant connection.
I chatted with a videotron support guy (actually two of them) who could not help me. Finally, they said they would get back to me via email. Then I could not tether my Italian SIM card and account on my laptop. I finally was able to do so; but the problem is the network keeps fading out. Nothing to do about this, except buy many cappuccinos’ and use the wifi at the café.
Tuesday also started with bright blue skies so I decided to drive to Ispica and Modica which are in the next (west) province of Ragusa. Ragusa is very rural, dotted with the most beautiful soft yellow calcareous rock (tula) which is used to build all the walls (lining the fields) and buildings. Because of the Iblei mountains, many of the fields are terraced in the same yellow stones. At sunset everything glows. There was a massive earthquake in 1693. It destroyed most of southeast Sicily and so much was rebuilt in the Baroque style that was popular then. UNESCO has designated many of the cities World Heritage sites and called them “the culmination and final flowering of Baroque art in Europe”.
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The best part of Sicily in my view is the beautiful countryside with the abundance of abandoned stone cottages and stone walls surrounding the fields of wild flowers. Since I arrived, there has been a steady progression of both wild and cultivated flowers. When I first arrived, the fields were full of graceful yellow flowers and wild alyssum that perfumed the air with lemon and honey. The roadside also was full of red poppies swaying in a light breeze. And the best thing, that unlike in Canada, they are at their peak for weeks, not days.
There are caves dotting the gorges near Ispica dating from the Neolithic are, which have been used as dwellings, sanctuaries, and necropolis. Some are still in use today as homes. I spent a couple of hours at the park (free) scrambling over the paths (I forgot my cane) and enjoying the immense peace of my surroundings. You really do feel that there is something sacred here. There was no one else here except bumble bees visiting the wild flowers. The air smelled of honey and I finally identified the wild honey alyssum growing all along the path.
Ispica is a sleepy small town with a central square containing private houses and Baroque public buildings, e.g., Palazzo Bruno with its distinctive rectangular bell tower.
After a quick lunch of olives, salami, and bread, I proceeded to Modica, the chocolate city. Modica was rebuilt after the earthquake higher up the ravine. So there are 2 Modica’s: alta (the modern city) and bassa (the old city). I only went to Modica bassa, wanting to wonder through the older alleys and climb the 300 steps to San Georgio. I never got to the steps, spending all my time in the lower city. I will have to go back. However, the old city was beautiful with many Baroque buildings. San Pietro dominated the main street which had many alleys radiating out through the old city. Not enough room for cars only foot traffic
I finally wondered back to Portopallo where I again had difficulty entering the courtyard. This time I scratched the bumpers. I am so glad I took out insurance.
Wednesday, I decided to see what it would be like, not driving madly trying to see everything. Besides I was tired. So, I drove to Pachino, the closest real town to do some shopping. Pachino is an agricultural town serving the many farms that surround it. It is not pretty. It is surrounded by miles and miles of greenhouses that grow cherry tomatoes that are known throughout Italy as pommodori di Pachino.
They are wonderful, the tomatoes, not the greenhouses. The greenhouses are built of wooden frames and covered with plastic sheets. The cover the landscape, and I think, are an eyesore. But they are the main industry here. There are hundreds of small roads going into the fields. My phone which I am using as a GPS is often off by 50 m. So, it tells me to turn off, sometimes up a farmer’s track rather than a road. I have had to backup off some terrible roads.
Back to the café for a cappuchino and wifi. A message from videotron that they had activated roaming in Italy on my phone. YEA!!! So, I can now see who has called me and call them on my Italian phone.
Again, I woke up late (10:30 local time) in brilliant sunshine. I decided to drive up the coast visiting the beaches. I have to drive through Pachino and followed the GPS lady up a dirt track into the fields – had to back up to the “main” road. Lots of cacti. The first town on the seaside was Pozallo, a charming small modern town. That is where a long sandy beach begins with small entrances to the sand and several restaurants/cafes. The cafes were closed but I was able to park and walk onto the beach and take my first dip into the Mediterranean.
The beaches were deserted at this time of year but I would imagine they would be crowded in summer. I drove along the coast through Sampieri, Punta del Corvo, Donnalucat, Plaia Grande, and Marina di Ragusa. I went beachcombing and collected seaweed and shells.
Today, Friday was very windy with thunderstorms predicted for the afternoon. I decided I would buy some local fish for dinner. The fish store in the town is closed for the winter so I decided to walk to the Portopalo port to buy fish “off the boats”. I had not realized it was 2 kilometers away along a road exposed to the winds. When I finally got there none of the boats had gone out because of the weather. So, no fresh fish was available. The fishermen told me to come back on Monday. So, I bought some salted anchovies at the supermercato and prepared them as directed by the neighbor – rub the salt off, cover them with good olive oil and fresh lemon juice. Eat them with fresh mozzarella on crusty bread. Delicious!
On the way back I stopped at the local church, San Gaetano, which is left open for people to drop in. It was, unexpectedly, very simple and peaceful. The local stone made it glow in the lamplight.
